Ajrak is the hallmark of Indus valley civilization. The rich crimson and deep indigo with black and white colors; that separate each symmetrical pattern on royal shawl, symbolizes a radiant and highly synchronized reddish maroon terrain that is spread all around the surface on which it is made. This is exactly how you feel when you see Ajrak being made for the first time, especially when they make it in bulk where one piece is made distinct from other with horizontal and vertical borders farming symmetrical patterns.
Many of us know Ajrak as a prestigious cloth of Sindh but a very few know what history it bears before it started as a permanent tradition of the land of civilization. A cloth resembling the pattern of Ajrak was first found tied around the shoulders of a king priest when diggings took place at Mohenjo-Daro. The similar patterns on cloth were also found in excavations in the Old World around Mesopotamia in trefoil scattered with small circles with interiors filled in red dye. The trefoil symbolizes three sun-disks merged together to represent the union of gods of sun, water and earth. Nature plays an important role in the making of Ajrak. Craftsmen work in total accord with the environment where the trees, animal, rivers, sun and even mud are all a part of its making. The standard size of an Ajrak cloth is 2.5 – 3 meter.
Ajrak is derived from an Arabic word Azrak meaning blue as blue is the prime dye of Ajrak printing. For Sindh it is more than fabric, it is the symbol of respect and hospitality. Both, people who hold valued positions and those who are ordinary inhabitants of River Indus, have the same usage of Ajrak in their respective lives. Guests are traditionally honored with this cloth when they visit Sindh and it is also an important part of their cultural events and gatherings.
When talking of the Sindhi Culture, the idiom “from cradle to grave” would perfectly fit on the usage of Ajrak which starts right from a child’s birth when Ajrak is used as a hammock. It is a fundamental part of Sindhi culture and an integral part of Sindhi apparel. Men would wear it as turbans or as a shawl around their shoulders and women would wear it as dupatta or chaadar. It is an integral part of a girl’s dowry in Sindh. Ajrak has such dominance in Sindh’s culture that wearing it means the honor and autonomy of the province. Ajrak is used not only as shawls but also as dupattas, turbans and in bed sheets, cushions, mats, mugs etc.
The making of Ajrak is an amazing and arduous art. Interestingly as it is an art that cannot be learned in schools yet its perfection has never been seen altered since its inception. The complicated designs are first carved by skillful craftsmen on wooden blocks and then transferred to the cloth immersed in crimson-blue dye. Block making is family craft and passed down from generations to generations. Several blocks are made to print patterns effectively and with great precision throughout the cloth. For this ruler, compass and other geometrical tools are also used to maintain the balance and harmony of repeated patterns. An authentic Ajrak is made by printing the symmetrical pattern on both sides of fabric using the method called Resist Printing.
Ajrak now, is not only an inspiration for Sindhi people but people all over Pakistan and even outside Pakistan. People truly admire this esteemed art of beauty, perfection and harmonization of well-established and remarkable patterns made by the hands of skillful craftsmen. Ajrak is not the pride of one province rather its identity of our national heritage throughout the globe.
Recently fashion industry has also realized the importance of this art and has tried to mold the contemporary form of Ajrak in more trendy and classy manner but Ajrak needs more efforts to preserve it true forms and to establish this art as constant part of our cultural and international reputation







































